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By Ia Kverghelidze

When gazed upon from afar, the sharp-peaked mountains of the country of Georgia are soaring and grand. Unseen within their rocky confines, however, lie isolated and amazing sights inaccessible to most outsiders. Located at the Western Asian / Eastern European frontier and bordered by the Black Sea, Russia, Turkey, Armenia and Azerbaijan, little-known Georgia is the site of the truly off-the-beaten-path mountainous regions of Svaneti and Tusheti, two raw, entrancing and rough-and-tumble provinces of well-established age-old traditions that give real meaning to hospitality.

This is a two-part article. Part one, below, presents the unique qualities of Svaneti, while part two, details the wonders of Tusheti.

Ushguli is the highest village in Europe, towered over by Mt. Shkhara,
the highest peak of the Georgian Caucasus Mountains

The Villages of Svaneti

Svaneti is Georgia’s remote northern province, a land of neatly cultivated cornfields, vast meadows and tiny villages of houses huddled beneath ancient towers. Museums and churches are protected as important monuments and everything takes place against the soaring backdrop of the Greater Caucasus Mountains.

In each of these villages, people live at altitudes of up to 2,200 meters, heads of families sit in special traditional chairs, death is greeted by song and every activity adds another layer to the incredible depth of culture on display. Latali stands out above many other villages with its 24 churches, although Ipari, Adishi, Lagurki and others boast many as well. In these Svaneti churches, ancient icons are illuminated with gold and doors are beautifully ornamented with silver. The antiquity of these churches is testament to the Svan people’s long-standing settlement of this mountainous region; the oldest churches belong to the 10th century.

One Svan tradition preserved to this day is a special chair in which only the head of family can sit.

While this group of villages is notable for architecture, others are distinguished by their setting. The loftiest of them all – the jewel in the crown of Svaneti villages – is the World Heritage Site of Ushguli. Located between 2,086 and 2,200 metres above sea level, Ushguli is the highest village in Europe, its four Svan communities (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murqmeli) nestled into the foothills of Mt. Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak (5,200m). Traditional Svaneti village towers, wild natural surroundings and, of course, famously hospitable people enliven this area, often called an ‘open-air museum’.

Equally breathtaking is the high-elevation village of Becho, located in the shadow of the rocky outcrop of Mt. Ushba (4,710m). Isolated amongst towering mountainous peaks, the nearby ancient settlement of Mazeri also adds to the area’s overall character.

Khoshalader – Greetings from the Svan

The severity of their surroundings has influenced Svan character; they are serious and reserved, but also faithful and extremely welcoming. Like locals, though, visitors should always greet passers-by with a khoshalader, the Svanetian dialect for ‘may victory be with you’. Not only is it a great way to break the ice, but the conversation it starts could continue into a meal, during which, true to their nature, Svans may take offence if you do not sample every dish on the table. But how could you resist local Svanetian specialties like kubdari (bread filled with meat) and tchvishdari (cheese and maize mixed and baked)?

Traditional architecture is yet another standout cultural quality of the Svan, typified by the traditional village towers built for defence against northern tribes and avalanches. Each Svan family usually has its own tower. Strategically disposed in rows, they provided safe retreat for everyone who climbed a rope stair, which could then be pulled up behind them. The narrow, five-storey structures also proved to be indispensable during heavy snowfalls. The oldest Svanetian towers date from the 9th century AD.

Typical Svan houses, called machubi, are still found throughout the region. The first floor of a machubi was used as an animal barn and the central fireplace was considered sacred. Although they could be seen as ghosts from the past, these houses exude a special charm today.

Svans greet history, battle, victory and death through local songs rich in polyphony.

Traditional culture also thrives in other ways. No one should miss a chance to hear the local polyphonic folk songs or take part in a perkhuli, a dance where everyone joins hands and forms a circle. Svan men also proudly wear their warm hats, acknowledged throughout Georgia as symbols of Svaneti.

Svaneti is a paradise for anyone yearning to learn more about the local culture by being immersed in it. After all, a visit to Svaneti really is most memorable when staying with local families and sharing in the preparation and eating of their meals. There’s a good selection of guesthouses and homestays in Ushguli for anyone choosing to overnight in the highest village in Europe. Otherwise, accommodation in Mestia, the cultural and religious centre of Svaneti, will not be a problem – there are guesthouses and hotels to meet all needs.

About the Author: Ia Kverghelidze

Ia Kverghelidze is the whl.travel local connection in Georgia, where Ia and her team at Adventure Club Jomardi connect travellers to authentic experiences throughout the country. For travel information, or to book Georgia hotels or Georgia tours, contact Ia and her team!