By Amy McLoughlin

In the beautiful region of Wayanad in Kerala, India, where dense jungle carpets rolling mountains in the Western Ghats, lies a magical hidden gem. The quiet village of Thrikkaipetta in the heart of this breathtaking region is a beacon for community spirit and an inspiration for ethical tourism.

Rural Wayanad’s delightful climate and rich biodiversity makes it a vastly agricultural population (almost 50% of the inhabitants rely on farming for income). Like many places across the globe, farming here has been hit by financial strain due to declining market prices for crops. This problem has resulted in devastating problems for the Wayanad farming community, and very sadly resulted in suicides.

The community here, proud of their land and culture, have created a cooperative that generates additional income for farmers, empowers local people through job creation and provides ethical tourism opportunities.

Thrikkaipetta’s Bamboo Village was initiated by local people who are passionate about improving life for the community. It is a community led bamboo nursery, using the materials to create traditional crafts, food products, for environmental protection and as a tourism attraction. Visiting their bamboo workshop is like stepping into Santa’s grotto! It is incredible to see so many local people employed, busy creating a huge selection of products.

The ‘Bamboo Village’, Thrikkaipetta, Wayanad (Photo by Kabani)

As the Bamboo Village has gone from strength to strength, it became clear that the tourism offer here could be expanded and provide an even greater opportunity for additional income. Local responsible tourism campaigning NGO, Kabani, has partnered with the Bamboo Village’s management, Uravu, and the groups pulled together their expertise on agricultural life and how best develop a tourist infrastructure that would offer enriching tourist experiences and improve the lives of local people.

Today tourists from across the globe can come and enjoy the Bamboo Village’s ethical homestays. Visitors can enjoy a tranquil location with a friendly local family, feast on traditional home cooked food and fruits from their homestay’s plantation. Guests can also join an eye-opening village tour, learning about the diverse crops growing locally and participating in cultural exchange events.

In addition to the unique learning experiences, guests can rest assured that fifty percent of the money paid for their cozy homestay is being reinvested into the community they have enjoyed getting to know. This money is helping to develop a community fund that provides crucial training for villagers (such as organic farming and healthy living education), youth projects and sustainable tourism development.

Blair Coburn from the UK recently stayed with a family in the Bamboo Village. “The opportunity to stay with a local family was a privilege. It was fantastic to know that my stay not only helped my wonderful hosts, but was helping to support the wider community through their training and development fund. I particularly enjoyed getting to shop for unique bamboo products, they made wonderful gifts to take home, and at the same time buying them has directly helped the women who made them“.

Relief Riders International is an adventure travel company that leads relief missions on horseback through the Thar Desert of Rajasthan, India, contributing key humanitarian causes through the following programs:

• GIVE THE GIFT OF SIGHT program offers free cataract surgeries to villagers in rural areas.
• GIVE A GOAT program distributes livestock for free, providing villagers with sustainable solutions for nutrition.
• PEDIATRIC/EDUCATIONAL CAMPS program is designed address the needs for education, nutrition and hygiene through the distribution of school supplies, de-worming and interactive group discussions.

Relief Riders Education Program

“In my field of travel writing, the description ‘life-changing’ is bandied about loosely, but I could not be more sincere when I say this trip (February 2007 Nagaur Relief Ride) changed my life.”
- Andrew Mersmann, author of Frommer’s 500 Places Where You Can Make a Difference (From his blog post, on Alexander Souri, Founder & Executive Director of Relief Riders International)

Living Example of a Truly “Much Better” Adventure

The following are excerpts from an interview with Alexander Souri, Founder & Executive Director of Relief Riders International, written and published by Alex Narracott, Co-Founder, Much Better Adventures.

Much Better Adventures (MBA): Adventures and humanitarianism…it’s a blend we share. Where did it all begin for you?

Alexander: I have been lucky enough to lead a very diverse life, but I started Relief Riders when I was probably at my most broke. I could barely afford to eat and didn’t have a car, but I had reached that point of realisation where meaning is far more important than money. I was asking myself what can be done to help the amazing places we visit, and Relief Riders just came from that.

MBA: Why this region of India?

Alexander: I grew up in New York until I was nine, but my Indian father actually sent me school in the Himalayas at that point. He wanted me to connect with my roots, and I guess it worked!

MBA: And why the horses?

Alexander: I seemed to bond with horses the minute I first sat on one. The Mawari horse, the indigenous horse of India, is just stunning and I have always felt a strong pull towards them. Going from New York to school in India was quite a shock for a nine year old who didn’t speak the language, and horse riding was kind of my escape. Dad gave me a horse and I used to head out all the time. There was no culture of pleasure riding there then – horses were a tool of work – so I used to confuse a lot of people!

Relief Rider International horse riding tour in India

MBA: You treat hundreds if not thousands on every trip you do. How many expert staff, medics, doctors, etc. typically go with you?

Alexander: It really depends on the circumstances and how many paying guests we have with us. On one trip 18 people canceled at the last minute which left us with only 3 in the group. I didn’t think we could make the projects happen, but I explained this to the 3 left and they each gave an extra $500 so that the relief mission could still take place. As a non-profit we often get people asking why our riding tours are the same price and not cheaper than for-profit alternatives. As a society we are so driven by price it can be hard to look beyond that and see that as well as an incredible horse riding experience, stunning landscapes, wildlife and cultural encounters, the money pays for us to deliver a full blown relief operation in conjunction with the Indian Red Cross.

MBA: Are these year round camps doing surgery etc., or just on the days of your visit? It’s hard to believe you have treated so many people!

Alexander: No, its all done in a blitz, but it is much harder now than it used to be. The government has stopped allowing rural surgeries due to the many problems that can arise without proper after care. So now people are screened at the camp on the day of the ride, they and their family have to be transported to a city where they stay for 3 days, before being taken back and followed up 2 weeks later. So what used to be 2-day work on the ride now takes 15 days and spread across a number of our trips.

MBA: How do you decide which families get goats?

Alexander: A good question! It used to be the village official, who can decide based on who are the poorest families in the village, but we had a few occasions where it turned out there was corruption. So now we use the principle of the local schools, who are more in touch with the local families. The goat giving ceremony is the most moving aspect of every ride. Handing a goat, a symbol of life, to some of the poorest people on this planet never fails to move you. It is not without problems though, and we have had difficulty with the whole event being used for political purposes by local politicians trying to milk the moment.

MBA: Relief Riders has had some great publicity and seems to be going from strength to strength. What advice would you give to others with a similar vision in other parts of the world who are struggling to deliver in the same way?

Alexander: Just do it and don’t give up or talk yourself out of it. You couldn’t put my skills and experiences together and think that would be the perfect blend to make Relief Riders happen. You can never know enough, but you can learn what you don’t know. So be a dreamer and make it happen.

Alexander Souri (right) receiving the 2010 United Nations NGO Positive Peace Award (Small Business Category) for Relief Riders International

Alexander Souri founded Relief Riders International (RRI) in 2004 and Relief Workers International (RWI) in 2008. He designs and supervises the relief missions, coordinates the work of the core team, and directs marketing and sales efforts for both RRI and RWI. Prior to founding RRI, Mr. Souri worked as a producer in both theater and film. He has worked on successful projects such as “The Matrix” and “X-Men,” and directed commercials and industrial films in China.

“Relief Riders International is designed to offer individuals not only an exhilarating journey but the chance to use their skills, enthusiasm and experience to promote positive change. I know from my own travels to Rajasthan that for every gift I have given I have received gifts that have changed my life.” – Alexander Souri

>> Learn more about and reserve to be on one of the upcoming Relief Riders trips
>> Support RRI’s work by making a donation to give a goat or to give a gift of sight.

More About Much Better Adventures

Much Better Adventures are searching for the world’s local, sustainable and harder to find travel choices for adventure seekers, collecting them in one place. This is a community you can’t buy your way into – those that meet the criteria are offered free membership, so travelers can get in direct contact. Their mission? A wide, fair and independent collection to quench your thirst for adventure, while supporting not-for-profit, community and innovative ecotourism projects who often cannot afford to appear on mainstream travel resources.

Photos by Relief Riders International

The Blue Yonder

Myriam and Titou, who participated in the River Nila Holiday journey with The Blue Yonder in 2009, share their Kerala experiences… All photos by Myriam Joseph Dumontil.

Cruising Down the Nila

Three-bedroom houseboat

River cruise with Gopinath ("Gopi") Parayil, The Blue Yonder's founder

Locals waving Hello from the riverside

Getting to Know the Sights, Sounds and Tastes of Kerala, the Local Way

Invited by the Kalarippayattu guru to share breakfast

Treehouse overlooking rice field

Famous spices

Kalarippayattu training at 6:30am before kids go to school

*Kalarippayattu: an Indian martial art from the southern state of Kerala, and possibly one of the oldest fighting systems in existence.

Local music performance

Dancing and having fun

Head of the Vayali group and a local girl

*Vayali – A group of young people from the cultural capital of Kerala, engaged in preserving the roots. Using indigenous percussion instruments and colorful costumes to create foot-tapping music, Vayali works to preserve the dying Valluvanadan tradition and culture.

Hands-on Local Travel Experiences

Pottery workshop

Traditional mixing with the feet

Tree planting at the River retreat

Watering the new planted tree with George Paul, River retreat manager

Planting a herbal tree in front of the music temple - a big honor

More About The Blue Yonder

The Blue Yonder was set up as a travel company based out of Bangalore (Karnataka) in order to bring in attention to the status of sadly depleted and neglected Bharatapuzha River (River Nila) in Northern Kerala and to help raise funds for Nila Foundation that works to revive and regenerate the dying river.

The Blue Yonder trips are designed based on the triple bottom line of responsible tourism that covers economic, social and environmental impacts. Using responsible tourism as a tool to spread awareness of many folk art forms, culture and lifestyle that are going into the oblivion, The Blue Yonder promotes a sense of pride amongst the local villagers – as well as bringing in alternative and supplementary sources of income to all stakeholders.

The Blue Yonder has received:

• Green Living “10 Incredible Eco Travel Destinations“
• Condé Nast Traveler May 2009 edition “8 Great Trips That Give Back“
• Footprint India guidebook 2009 “Very best sustainable tourism initiative”

>> Read more about The Blue Yonder’s numerous achievements.

From left to right: Piko Chouhan, sanctuary guard, Ravindra Singh Chouhan – sanctuary warden, Gajendra Singh Chouhan, Baronet Balwant Singh Chouhan, head chef, sanctuary guard

The idea to create a new wildlife refuge in Jalore was first born out of discussions among a group of friends and family – Gajendra Singh Chouhan, a patron of the arts from Jodhpur, and his friends Shanane Davis and Ravindra Singh Chouhan from Kaniwara, a village near Jalore, and Ravindra’s father Baronet Balwant Singh Chouhan.

The piece of land that became the Sanctuary belonged to the Chouhan family. Gajendra and Ravindra had spent time on this land when they were children, and Ravindra, now a granite trader, was looking for someone interested in dealing in granite. As Gajendra and Ravindra started searching for potential business partners and decided to visit the area, they found out that a friend of Baronet’s had brought a couple of Europeans to the property to see the Gazelle that roam there.

On their way back Jodhpur, Gajendra and Shanane discussed the possibility of setting up a program to allow people to visit the land and see the Gazelle. They realized that if the Gazelle were present possibly other animals were as well, and after talking to Ravindra learned that small populations of Blue-Bull Antelope, wildcats, fox and birds were also present in Jalore. Hours later, the group decided to conserve and preserve their land for wildlife, and named it the Jalore Wildlife Sanctuary.

Great Horn Owl (Photo by Kunal Patel)

Days of discussion with walking safaris followed, as none of the four had any experience in wildlife conservation. They encountered many difficulties: For generations the people living in a village nearby had used the land for cutting and collecting firewood from the forest and for grazing their domestic livestock. Poachers also used the area for hunting of different wild animals for meat.

For seven generations, the high mountains past the savanna and forest belonged to the Chouhan family but with various laws passed when India became independent these connecting lands were confiscated by the government and declared the property of the forest department. The four decided it was vital to protect this land as well in order to ensure the recovery of the wildlife and eco-system.

As a way to balance the needs of locals and the wildlife conservation challenges, True Luxury Tours was founded as a mechanism to raise funds for local conservation efforts. The name, True Luxury Tours, reflect the founders’ belief that true luxury is not a mass produced labeled product or a commercialized five star hotel, but the ability to give clients unparalleled experiences that are truly one-off in a responsible manner.

Safari Campsite in the Jalore Wildlife Sanctuary

Gajendra provided the initial investment in order to conserve the land and to help the wildlife populations to become stable. To revitalize the forest with indigenous plant and tree species, 2,000 indigenous trees and plants were planted in 2007 in areas of previous tree cover. The company has also conducted a wildlife population census and species-specific wildlife studies, and constructed a small eco-friendly safari camp site for a maximum of six guests per day.

It was found that the main prey species of the Asian Steppe-Wildcat, Jungle Cat, Great Horn Owl, Tawny Eagle, and the Imperial Eagle was the desert Zird. The desert Zird does not inhabit an area that has previously been farmed as it needs uncultivated hard soil for its survival. The Zird habitats were carefully studied to ensure the areas were not disturbed during re-forestation. Today, the Zird population is thriving, and is an important part of the wildlife populations in the sanctuary.

Asian Steppe Wildcat (Ornata) in the Jalore Wildlife Sanctuary

Another significant challenge to the development of the sanctuary was regulating poaching and tree cutting, and reducing burden on the land by wood collection and the grazing of domestic livestock by the local villagers. Meetings with villagers were held to inform them on the protection of the area, and to find solutions for their domestic animals to graze without disturbing the ecosystem.

A system was developed to limit grazing to a certain area, which, divided into zones, was to be grazed on a rotating basis; each zone would be grazed for a limited time each year and then closed for the rest of the year to recover. Villagers were hired to help monitor poaching (no poaching incidences have since been reported).

After a year of negotiation, the nearest granite mine that operated on the border of the sanctuary was closed permanently in 2007. It was a significant achievement, as certain species (Leopard, Asian Steppe-Wildcat, and Desert Fox) had a route of hunting that followed a circular pattern through four valleys in the sanctuary that included the area occupied by this mine.

Leopard on granite rock

Those interested in contributing to the Jalore Wildlife Sanctuary’s conservation programs and experiencing unique wildlife in Jalore can participate in True Luxury Tours’ private tours. When you do so, you will be receiving authentic wildlife travel experience knowing that you are, at the same time, giving back 42% of the cost of your stay through True Luxury Tours to local conservation initiatives and wildlife studies. See information on rates and activities for 2010.

Celebrating the Spirit of Survival

For children with no home, life is a fast train to nowhere. Salaam Baalak Trust works to restore them to the world of childhood, take them from a lonely dead-end to bonding, learning and the joy of a professional life.

In the last twenty years, the Salaam Baalak Trust (SBT) has helped thousands of children come off the streets and into a safe and nurturing environment. SBT has five 24-hour shelters (one devoted to girls), with 50 to 55 children visiting each. The Trust provides a holistic safety net of services catering to the individual needs of street children in Delhi and Mumbai, covering the entire area of child development from physical and medical care to the educational, creative, cognitive, social and vocational needs of the children.

Part of the capacity building support that SBT provides includes training for children to learn to become local tour guides.

Travellers with free time in New Delhi can take part in an exciting walking tour through the New Delhi railway station and the enchanting inner-city streets of Paharganj led by a child who was once living and working on the streets. This walk takes travellers on a journey through the back streets of Delhi with a child who has been fully trained as a local guide.

Planeterra Foundation partners with the Salaam Baalak Trust through its New Delhi Streetkids Project. Travellers on Planeterra’s Project India trip and other Gap Adventures India tour participants that pass through Delhi can take a city walk with SBT guides. Planeterra has donated funds to help cover the cost for two young guides for six months and to pay for food for four shelters. Below are letters from the two boys Planeterra’s donation supported this year – they have written the letters themselves.

Brijesh Pandey, SBT Tour Guide

I’m Brijesh Pandey (one of the tour guides in City Walk) I’ve been working here and at the same time I’m studying also. I’m studying Tourism Management from IGNOU and Spanish from Institute Servantes.

Like many of my friends I also ran away from home in the age of 8 because of my parents and my uncle and aunt. I spent about my five years on the street, within this period I was arrested twice and sent to prison because we used to sell water bottles illegally on the street. I came to Delhi when I was 11 years old and I joined Salaam Baalak Trust when I was 13 years old and after that I completed my 12th standard from the NMS School in the age of 19. And now I really appreciate SBT because whenever I remember my past I feel more stronger to see myself at this stage.

Thank You.
Regards,
Brijesh Pandey

Anil Kumar, SBT Tour Guide

I’m Anil one of the tour guides who works for the Salaam Baalak Trust as a Tour Guide, I belong a small family, in my family I have two brothers and mom as well. I live in railway community area is in State Entry Road New Delhi, which is very close to Connaught place. I had father who used to drink alcohol a lot and he did not want to I get better education because most of the money my father used to spend on the drinking alcohol that why I was unable to get better education.

And then my mother brought me to Salaam Baalak Trust. Salaam Baalak Trust helped me out to complete my education. Last year I completed my 12th standard which is the final year in school now I’m going to join Indra (IGNOU) Gandhi National Open University to study Bachelor of Arts. I’m really happy, and also I am learning English in S.B.T and trying to make it better English everyday.

Thanking you.
Regards,
Anil Kumar

Letters and photos provided courtesy of Tanya Alaag of Salaam Baalak Trust.
Information compiled by Kelly Galaski, Partnership Coordinator, Planeterra

About Salaam Baalak Trust (SBT)

SBT runs five 24-hour full care shelters for children. These shelters provide the children security, a sense of home, and an opportunity to receive all the critical inputs of childhood. They aim at restoring the childhood in children besides instilling in them the values of independence and decision-making, education and social values and financial self-dependence, in order to help them become mature and responsible citizens of the country, and caring and responsible members of the society.

• SBT Brochure: “Whatever the Salaam Baalak Trust can do – it will be a fraction of what all children deserve. Please help us to do more…”
• SBT Walking Tour: “Walk into the street life of Delhi – Nobody knows Delhi’s streets better than the young people who will be your guides!”

About Planeterra Foundation

Planeterra is a non-profit organization dedicated to the development and support of small communities around the world. With its international partnerships, projects, and voluntours, Planeterra strives to be a global voice for voluntourism in the rising movement toward sustainability in travel. Planeterra is working with TIES as a Voluntourism Partner to collaborate on a number of initiatives to educate and engage travelers in voluntourism activities that give back to destinations, contribute to the sustainable development of communities, and provide unique opportunities to make personal connections with the local people.

TIES business member and ecoDestinations India partner, Grass Routes Journeys is founded on a philosophy of  respect for the environment, the culture and the community, and through authentic stories and hands-on experiences, helps bridge boundaries and open up possibilities. It is apparent from the company’s people-focused grassroots approaches to travel that respectful interactions with Indigenous communities and their cultural heritage is an integral part of what defines Grass Routes’ natural and cultural tourism experiences. TIES asked Claire Prest, co-founder of Grass Routes, to share an insider’s view of visitors’ encounters with Adivasi (which literally means “first people” or “original inhabitants”) in Orissa.

TIES: What are some of the challenges that you have faced through Grass Routes staff and guests’ interactions with Adivasis in Orissa?

Claire: In India as in most other places in the world, indigenous communities often exist on the fringe of society and their socio-political situation is complex. It is important for us to provide our guests with accurate and up-to-date information. Inevitably we have more information than can be easily digested on one holiday experience; our greatest challenge is to summarise centuries of history and evolution into bite size pieces!

A common assumption our travellers make is that all indigenous communities share the same customs and costumes. In Orissa, we have 62 distinct tribes each with their own folklore and differing systems of social set-up and beliefs. Depending on each specific journey, we share one-on-one experiences with different indigenous communities in and around their villages.

We develop a deeper understanding of that particular community but are careful to explain that one kind of experience is not representative of all. We craft our itineraries around local weekly markets where indigenous communities converge and inter-mingle with each other. This is a great platform for travellers to experience the diversity that exists among the community.

TIES: Beyond economic benefits, how do Adivasis communities benefit from their participation in responsible tourism and their interaction with visitors?

Claire: Adivasi communities have the opportunity to share their indigenous knowledge and reaffirm their unique (and in some cases endangered) cultures. This is vitally important to Grass Routes and is the key reason we work so closely with indigenous communities. We literally sit down with villagers and discuss what they feel are the most important aspects of their culture. We explain why travellers from other parts of the world feel the need to leave home and explore cultures unfamiliar to their own (in many remote villages this is a new concept).

Together, we develop activities that promote aspects of traditional culture in fun and meaningful ways. Whether this is on a jungle walk foraging for leaves or by hand-weaving fabric, travellers get a hands-on feel for indigenous life from the people themselves.

This can be an empowering experience for many indigenous villagers. Grass Routes develops awareness of the uniqueness and value of their ancient culture. The sense of pride among these communities is generated through direct and open communications from travellers in respect and appreciation of their indigenous livelihood systems.

TIES: What are some of the challenges facing Adivasis communities and how can travelers help?

Claire: Orissa’s indigenous communities have lived in relative isolation for centuries. This has dramatically changed in recent years with roads and improved communications connecting villages with towns and adjoining provinces. An influx of different influences threatens indigenous livelihoods and beliefs. Travellers can help Adivasi’s facing these challenges by encouraging indigenous solutions. Grass Routes does this by partnering local organizations and community co-operatives focused on meeting these challenges in sustainable ways.

Travellers on our Village Volunteer journey encounter three unique ways indigenous communities are tackling threats to their essential livelihood. Through organic agriculture, creative learning and alternative energy creation indigenous communities are tapping into sustainable solutions for essentially global problems.

It always comes as a refreshing surprise to the participants on our Village Volunteer journey that remote communities with limited resources are finding sustainable solutions and tackling climate change. We need to learn from, encourage and contribute to this. Joining our Village Volunteer journey is a perfect way to start understanding the challenges indigenous communities face and step up to the challenge of finding a sustainable solution.

TIES: What are some aspects of Grass Routes travelers’ visits to indigenous communities that they find surprising/unexpected?

Claire: Most travellers underestimate and are therefore pleasantly surprised by how closely Orissa’s indigenous cultures are in tune with Nature. Indigenous livelihoods are intrinsically connected to the forest, weather patterns and harvest cycles. Although the form or ritual of worship differs among different communities, they all share a common reverence for Nature who is their source and supreme God. When you live so closely with the sun and the sky, it’s only natural that you revere the Earth in this way, but I think it’s something most people living in urban environments stray from.

Travellers are also surprised to learn multiple ingenious usages of simple raw materials found in the forest. Useful everyday objects like plates, ropes and baskets are all fashioned from leaves, sticks and bark. The dexterity involved in crafting these objects always comes as a surprise, especially after hands-on experience!

Our greatest kick is to see travellers draw inspiration from our indigenous cultures. This usually comes as a surprise to our travellers who don’t expect to find such strength of spirit in this remote corner of the world. One of our travellers remarked ‘I never imagined travelling so far away from home would leave me so connected and grounded’. A true and fitting tribute to indigenous ways.

Learn More about Grass Routes

Indigenous communities participate in the following Grass Routes journeys:

• Orissa Odyssey
• Tribal Trails
• Village Volunteer

Check out Grass Routes’ article about benefits of ecotourism for local conservation: “Birder’s Paradise – Chilika Lake, Orissa, India”

Claire Prest, Grass Routes Co-founder

“I have lived and worked in the Indian Subcontinent since 2000. More significantly I have traveled its length and breadth – working for Australia’s leading adventure travel company, connecting with people of various quirks and guises. I have experienced (and continue to experience) India’s untold charms and challenges. In honor of this irrefutable bond, and in gratitude of the countless people who have shared their genuine hospitality, I co-founded Grass Routes. A pioneering travel company that operates community-based tours in the extraordinary East Indian state of Orissa, Grass Routes is an ethical effort to encourage ancient livelihoods. I now work in partnership with local communities employing sustainable tourism to revive local arts & crafts and breathe fresh life into traditional cultures. Here, I live close to nature and closer still to a way of life so far removed from my birth country, yet I couldn’t feel more at home!”

This article was originally published by Grass Routes Journeys (TIES business member) on October 28, 2009.
>> View original article on Grass Routes “off road” blog.

Chilika Lake, Asia’s largest estuarine lagoon hosts over a million birds every winter. Migratory waterfowl wing in from places as far away as Siberia to jostle resident species over freshwater wetland. Water lilies open with the rising sun and a symphony of bird calls flutter to our ears.

We are perched on the northern edge of Chilika Lake overlooking the 1100 square kilometre expanse of waters as it stretches seaward toward the Bay of Bengal. Here, a small but remarkable village has come full circle to protect a vital wetland area of international importance.

Historically residents of Mangalajodi village posed a threat to bird life. Many families turned the lucrative poaching trade and it wasn’t long before bird numbers hit an all-time low. A local conservation organization Wild Orissa meet with the villagers a decade ago and has been instrumental in guiding their transformation ever since.

Poachers developed an intricate knowledge of bird habitats, breeding cycles and migration patterns. The challenge was to utilise this knowledge and their existing skill-set for conservation. Awareness campaigns combined with sting operations convinced many to change their ways.

The transition was not an easy one for Kishan Behera, who notes, “The pressure from within the community was hard to withstand, but how long can we keep killing [the birds] before there is nothing left?” As a reformed poacher himself, Kishan is well versed in the tricks of the trade and provides valuable information and insights against members of his own community. It’s a brave effort that over the years gained momentum and support.

Now a local village committee has been formed by a core group of ex-poachers determined to continue their new role as protectors. Members of the committee conduct daily surveillance patrols to check incidences of poaching. During winter they are also engaged in monitoring the wetlands and are excited by the increase of migratory birds flocking to their homeland.

The new protectors double-up as impressive guides to this newly burgeoning destination. We glide through sun-flecked reeds with binoculars poised. Kishan Behera gently taps the side of the dung-out canoe to indicate he’s spotted something; following his hand. We witness a pair of Asian Openbill Storks stretch their broad wings and take flight with extended necks. Kishan whispers the bird’s common name in English. His ability to navigate effortlessly through the watertable has been invaluable. His knowledge of local and migratory birds greatly enriches the experience.

Ecotourism activities such as boat cruises and nature walks provide a supplementary income for the poachers-turned-protectors. More than just extra pennies in their pockets, ecotourism serves to encourage local conservation efforts. Providing support and adding weight to the shift has made remarkable changes in the villages psyche. From a community bent on destruction emerges a concentrated collective focused on preservation.

The village at Mangalojodi is a unique example of how partnerships can give way to conservation and sustainable livelihoods. Ecotourism plays a vital key; one that draws attention and appreciation to local conservation efforts. Breathing new life into natural habitats and safeguarding local environments for generations to come.

Want to visit Mangalojodi?

Grass Routes Journeys operates special customised tours to Mangalajodi on request. The winter months from November to February are the best time to visit. Grass Routes has generously donated a community eco-tour package, “India Nature & Wildlife Journeys, 6 days/5 nights for 2” which is currently available on TIES ecoAuction. This is a custom-made package provided exclusively for TIES ecoAuction, and, with the opening bid starting at 40% of the retail value, is the best deal available anywhere. Learn more & Bid now!

Claire Prest, Grass Routes co-founder

“I have lived and worked in the Indian Subcontinent since 2000. More significantly I have traveled its length and breadth – working for Australia’s leading adventure travel company, connecting with people of various quirks and guises. I have experienced (and continue to experience) India’s untold charms and challenges. In honor of this irrefutable bond, and in gratitude of the countless people who have shared their genuine hospitality, I co-founded Grass Routes. A pioneering travel company that operates community-based tours in the extraordinary East Indian state of Orissa, Grass Routes is an ethical effort to encourage ancient livelihoods. I now work in partnership with local communities employing sustainable tourism to revive local arts & crafts and breathe fresh life into traditional cultures. Here, I live close to nature and closer still to a way of life so far removed from my birth country, yet I couldn’t feel more at home!”